DIY Home Repairs Simple Projects

How To Install a Strong Doorstop

Strong Doorstop meme

I need doorstops in my home. Strong! Inexpensive! Doorstops!

I recently repainted my oldest son’s room and as part of the process needed to make a few repairs in the walls. (Life happens.) One of the repairs I had to do was fix a hole in the wall right behind the doorknob. The crazy thing is that this wasn’t the first time that spot needed to be repaired. It was obvious that a previous owner had needed to do the same thing.

repaired hole in wall

“Well that’s stupid,” you might be thinking. Just use a doorstop.

I guess we’re on the same wavelength, but that wasn’t the problem. A doorstop used to be there. The problem was there wasn’t a strong place to attach the doorstop, and to have an effective doorstop it needs a secure base.

The baseboard in his room is too short. It has a curvy part at the top, right where the doorstop needs to be in order to actually hit the door, making for a very insecure attachment to the wall. Behind almost every door in my home is an ugly, little hole in the baseboard where a doorstop was once screwed in and has since broken off.

Solution:

My solution is very simple. Make a strong base for a doorstop.

How to Install A Strong Doorstop

First I cut a small block of 1×3 from some scraps I had on hand. The existing baseboard is almost 2 ½ inches tall, the same as a 1×3.

Then using the block I traced straight lines on the baseboard on either side of the block in the location best suited for the doorstop.
Next, I needed to cut out this portion of baseboard.

Oscillating-Power-Tool

The easiest way (and the only way I can think of) to make the cuts necessary is to use an oscillating multifunction power tool to cut out the small portion of baseboard. I used one from my local Harbor Freight tool store, though you can get them at Home Depot, Lowes, and other such stores. I used its plunge cut attachment.

Oscillating-power-tool-whole

After making the cuts and scoring the caulk along the top of the chunk of baseboard, I could pry the little piece out with a flat head screwdriver.

Once the hole was all cleaned out and the old caulk scraped off the wall, I fit the new square block into place. There was a little extra room on either side, but that’s okay since I knew I would be caulking it later. If there were tons of space, I would have cut a new piece of 1×3.

I nailed this new piece in place and drove nails into the baseboards on either side to make sure they were still secure.

Nail-placement-guide for strong doorstop

Then a little caulk and paint to make my block look like it was always meant to be there.

Strong Doorstop wood foundation

Once the paint was dry I could install the new doorstop to its new and improved location.

The doorstop came in a package of 2 for under $2. Cheap but effective.

doorstops

I opened the package and removed the twist-on bottom of the doorstop.

Doorstop-bottom-2

This is what gets screwed into the block. The screw was inside the doorstop.

Doorstop-screw

It only took a minute to thread the screw through the hole in the screw-on bottom and screw it into my new doorstop block.

Doorstop-screw-on-bottom strong doorstop

 

Finally I threaded the bottom of the spring doorstop into the screw-on bottom and presto, done.

Strong Doorstop spring install

It’s been fabulous so far. There is now plenty of room between the wall and the doorknob to avoid any more wall holes.

How to Install a Strong Doorstop

I hope! Of course one should never underestimate the destructive power of six children. Oh well. That’s why I’ve gotten really good at fixing holes in my walls.

1 Comment

  • Cousin Trisha here- I installed the same doorstop in our new house! Fortunately for me the baseboard worked just find and I got to use my new drill for the pilot hole for the doorstop screw. If I ever change baseboards I’ll keep the square piece replacement in mind. Just out of curiosity, is anyone going to comic con in Sept. and if so are they doing a cosplay?